Planning for the eastern NM Route 66 explorations can best be summed up as drive, camp, paddle (with eating in there, of course)
I left very early from my Conchas lake campsite, hoping to get to Ute Lake way over east about 20 miles from the Texas border for a sunrise paddle. I miscalculated drive time, or took a wrong turn on the secondary county roads attempting a short cut, thus arrived at this beautiful lake later in the day than I would have liked. Ahem. We choose not to dwell on my directional and navigational challenges.
When I finally arrived at the lake shore, the sun was high and a bit of wind was making the beautiful jade green water rather bouncy.
The higher sun also made millions of sparkling diamonds on the water. It was blinding, even with dark glasses, but very beautiful and mesmerizing in the way that the best treasures are. I can immerse myself in the dance of light on water forever and still not be done with it. …stay with you forever and never realize the time…*
There is a concrete boat launch at Ute Lake state park but, with an almost empty campground, I found a lovely, empty of people, sandy beach to launch from. The perfect tiny bay, all my own on this midweek, mid September day, was shaded by cottonwoods just beginning to put on autumn gold.
The strengthening wind made little breakers which rolled in to the shore culminating in a lacy edge.
It all made for an ocean shore atmosphere as I enjoyed a post paddle cup of chai and snack. This might not be saltwater, nor have the regular rhythm of ocean waves but isn’t this kinda what I was searching for when my kayak and I drove 5000 miles to explore the California coast a couple of months ago? Well the beachcombing is a little different. Yes. No shells or seaglass.
Ute lake was created in the 1960s as an irrigation reservoir on the Canadian river. With it’s 13 miles of length, Ute lake offers days of paddle explorations with ample comfortable camping and don’t forget those typical New Mexico state park well maintained bathroom facilities. Ahhh! Amazing hot water showers.
I found peace and contentment in my brief drive-by reconnaissance of this lake and campground. I shall certainly be back. Now that I know the way.
The rest of that day was spent not getting close to the famous Cadillac Ranch cars planted in the desert just outside Amarillo, Texas. Blame it on the road works - our federal tax dollars at work via the Bipartisan Infrastructure Bill. An explosive expanse of orange traffic barriers and detours completely blocked me from taking my planned route to the aristocrat of Route 66 Roadside Attractions. I was hot and grumpy. Impatient big city Texas traffic didn't make it any easier to plot another route.
Then I had a disappointing lunch at a Punjabi restaurant in Amarillo, which I really do not recommend. Though there were vegetarian options, A Punjabi Affair is very Americanized with dreadful dollar store decor, and presentation geared for take out, generating mounds of non recyclable trash. And the other patrons stared rudely at me.
Haven’t Texans ever seen a tattooed, dreadlocked, sixty-something, a tad disheveled from camping, solo female kayaker-traveler? I had even showered and put on a dress and sandals after paddling, thanks to the forementioned excellent facilities at Ute Lake State Park.
Bruce Chatwin where are you when I need you and your ear for the songs that drive the nomad’s journey and ability to distinguish the women from the broken movie set designer cowboys?
On that day I should have taken my own advice from a previous roadtrip and gotten lunch at Dillon’s Taste of India at the huge truckstop in San Jon in New Mexico, and not been seduced by the allure of a big city restaurant.
Traffic on the interstate 40 to get back to New Mexico was hell. Too. Many. Big.Trucks. Some of them with a very bullying driving style. We Americans really need to stop consuming So. Much. Stuff.
And that, with a few hours driving south, was the end of a little mid September camping, paddling roadtrip to explore New Mexico Route 66 from Albuquerque to the Texas border.
Or Three Lakes and a Blue Hole.
The kayak and I will return to these lakes and their lovely campsites in east central New Mexico. That’s a promise.
*words borrowed from the song You’re Gonna Make Me Lonesome When You Go, copyright Robert Zimmerman, better known as Bob Dylan
I've seen love go by my door
It's never been this close before
Never been so easy or so slow
I been shootin' in the dark too long
When something's not right, it's wrong
You're gonna make me lonesome when you go
… Dragon clouds so high above
I've only known careless love
It always has hit me from below
But this time 'round, it's more correct
Right on, target so direct
You're gonna make me lonesome when you go
… Purple clover, Queen Anne lace
Crimson hair across your face
You can make me cry, but you don't know
Can't remember what I was thinking of
You might be spoiling me too much love
You're gonna make me lonesome when you go
… Flowers on the hillside blooming crazy
Crickets talking back and forth in rhyme
Blue river running slow and lazy
I could stay with you forever and never realize the time
… Situations have ended sad
Relationships have all been bad
Mine have been like Verlaine's and Rimbaud's
But there's no way I can compare
All them scenes to this affair
You're gonna make me lonesome when you go
… You're gonna make me wonder what I'm doing
Staying far behind without you
You're gonna make me wonder what I'm saying
You're gonna make me give myself a good talking to
… I'll look for you in old Honolulu
San Francisco or Ashtabula
You're gonna have to leave me, now I know
But I'll see you in the sky above
In the tall grass in the ones I love
You're gonna make me lonesome when you go
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