Moth to a flame: Tucumcari tonight!

Perhaps nothing is more quintessential American road trip than the experience of sizzling, dazzling, charismatic neon roadside business signs.

Until my recent explorations in east central New Mexico, my travels on Route 66 in California and Arizona had been mostly daytime with the harsh bright southwest light highlighting dereliction, age and neglect.

One can almost get to thinking the Mother Road experience, due to celebrate a centennial in 2026, is broken, damaged now beyond repair.

After that very hot late July drive across Arizona, I was starting to wonder about the wisdom, for my state of mind and spirit, of this Route 66 project which I set myself this year.

Did I really want to keep dragging myself through the terminal sameness of the offerings in “curio” shops, even if they were housed in quirky historic buildings, and peruse yet another hostile-to-vegetarians menu of yet another clone of an American roadside diner?

Then I drove into Tucumcari one evening, from my campsite 30 miles away at Conchas lake

I discovered a whole different oh! so vibrant neon colored world sparkling, turning, dancing, beckoning, above all celebrating life. Viva la vida! Viva!

On my daytime tour of Tucumcari, I hadn’t even noticed that there was a laundromat.

Plying her trade on a rooftop, neon Madame Wash Lady lights up the night.

One can go down a rabbit hole chasing just the stories of the neon on this historic American road.

Ever the librarian I discover piles of books, academic dissertations and articles  have been written on the subject.

I found and watched an older 26 minute PBS documentary called Route 66 The Neon Road about some neon restoration projects in New Mexico including TePee Curios.

Not every sign has been restored to a neon brilliance.

Some signs, like Motel Safari, a family owned mid century classic Route 66 motel, are better appreciated in the daytime.

Though this establishment does still do their bit to entice at night.

Who wouldn’t want to tiptoe through the flamingoes to follow Jimmy Dean into that lobby which, incidentally, features an almost life sized model of a camel?

Another mid century marvel which disappears at night, but intrigues in daylight is the Route 66 Motel which features light aircraft both out front and set into masonry.

Once upon a time Tucumcari hosted an annual air show.

In 2006 a plane crashed while performing aerial acrobatics, killing the pilot. The show no longer seems to be held but Amelia (Earhart) and Beryl (Markham) turned up to take me for a spin in the wild blue yonder as the sun comes up on Icarus and the night birds sail away, Al Stewart’s Flying Sorcery* on the soundtrack. Of course.

After an enchanted evening wandering historic Route 66 in Tucumcari, I picked up an excellent supper of spicy General Tso’s Tofu and steamed rice from The Golden Dragon, another magnificent sign in need of restoration and which disappears at night.

In keeping with the quirky attraction spirit of Route 66, I did encounter a rather creative roadside art installation made especially otherworldly on this night of slightly eclipsed full moon. Move over neon, we have a more ancient power source operating here.

The curators of the dinosaur museum in the town might want to check their inventory.

One of their inmates seems to have escaped.

This dude Clint Eastwood too. No sign of him beyond this sign. 65 years is a long time to carry a torch. Context: Clint Eastwood stayed in town during parts of the filming of the American Western genre tv series Rawhide which aired from 1959 - 1965. New Mexico has long been a favorite place for making movies.

Not only is the quality of light exquisite but production is seldom halted by bad weather and there is a lot of wide angle lens landscape under an infinity of sky.

Even if, judging by the general state of neglect of the property displaying the banner, Clint’s bed is not available, there is certainly no shortage of classic Americana motel accommodation should you take the Roadrunner Lodge advice to drive the old Route 66 through Tucumcari. Isn’t this just one of the prettiest roadrunner (New Mexico State bird) graphics? Full marks to the graphics designer.

I do think one needs to stay the night. Though there is a lot beyond general neglect and weeds in the sidewalk cracks, to see in the daytime, and Tucumcari does murals really well, the historic route through town pulls out all the stops to put on a magic show of neon brilliant enchantment at night.

If I had a lot of money, I would stay a week, trying out all the motels. I might, however, tire of seven days straight dining on General Tso’s tofu, good though it was. There isn’t much else on local menus which doesn’t feature dead flesh or eggs which are just another form of poultry flesh, though there is an excellent cheese factory in town, making Tucumcari Mountain Cheese products available very reasonably in the local grocery store. Two blocks of the seasonally available green chile, garlic Tucumcari Mountain Cheese came home with me.

Just don’t expect to find the lights still on in the predawn hours. Vintage neon has a bedtime, it seems.

I discovered this darkness before dawn phenomenon when heading out for an early morning paddle on Ute Lake an hour away (if you don’t get lost) Next post will deal with my geospatial navigation inadequacies.

*Flying Sorcery - Al Stewart

With your photographs of Kitty Hawk

And the biplanes on your wall

You were always Amy Johnson

From the time that you were small

No schoolroom kept you grounded

While your thoughts could get away

You were taking off in Tiger Moths

Your wings against the brush-strokes of the day

Are you there

On the tarmac with the winter in your hair

By the empty hangar doors you stop and stare

Leave the oil-drums behind you, they won't care

Oh, are you there

Oh, you wrapped me up in a leather coat

And you took me for a ride

We were drifting with the tail-wind

When the runway came in sight

The clouds came up to gather us

And the cockpit turned to white

When I looked the sky was empty

I suppose you never saw the landing-lights

Are you there

In your jacket with the grease-stain and the tear

Caught up in the slipstream of dare

The compass roads will guide you anywhere

Oh, are you there

The sun comes up on Icarus as the night-birds sail away

And lights the maps and diagrams

That Leonardo makes

You can see Faith, Hope and Charity

As they bank above the fields

You can join the flying circus

You can touch the morning air against your wheels

Are you there

Do you have a thought for me that you can share

Oh I never thought you'd take me unawares

Just call me if you ever need repairs

Oh, are you there